Hi all
So today I tried to roll down my window only for the glass to stay in place followed by a couple thuds inside the door, meaning it had come off it's tracks. Upon popping off the door panel I can see not only is the window off the tracks it rests in but one of the regulator arms had popped out of it's plastic roller. It was impossible to get the roller back onto the ball stud so I opted to do this home fix that's very commonly done to the rear glass (but with a 5/8 roller), as the mechanism is nearly the same. After maybe 30-45 minutes I got the rollers swapped out and quickly put everything back together for a test run to ensure nothing was binding - the glass moves smoothly and acts just as it did before, however when it reaches the top of the door the window will automatically retract, as if it's detecting a blockage and the safety feature kicks in. This only happens when using the "auto" function; you can get the window to seal by gently/manually tapping the button, but if you try and force it further it will retract once again.
Is there a step I'm missing here? I talked to a family friend that runs an autoglass business and he mentioned how with many cars the motor will often need to be "re-timed" following a replacement procedure to avoid tripping this safety feature, and that with most cars it's stated in the manual and something very simple to do (for example, holding the window button down for 10 seconds.) I don't have a manual with me and I can't find anything readily available through google pertaining to this process, would anyone here happen to know more about it? Has anyone else here experienced this problem? I found this thread here which is describing my situation accurately, but of course is a dead end
I've recorded a video to help show what is happening - as you can see the window moves smoothly at the appropriate speed, to the appropriate height, yet rewinds like something is impeding the motor. The only connectors I unplugged were the window/door switches

4Runner Power Window Issue - YouTube

Believe I found my answer in the FSM but still wouldn't mind a second opinion

Attached Images

BE-69 Adjustment (2000 4Runner) Power Window Control System.pdf (35.9 KB, 92 views)

You could try to do the fsm adjustment [ reset] if you wish. Did your roller change slightly change the travel length?

Thankfully, I haven't had to mess power window tracks yet.
But I am sure it's just a matter of time.

I know that's what I would try next to readjust your window travel..

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Picture isn’t working for me.

I’ve been dealing with this issue since I swapped the crank (manual) windows my 4Runner came with for power windows. I tried the FSM reset (assuming it’s the same one since I can’t see the photo and I don’t have mine handy), with no luck. I may have done it wrong as I seem to remember having to re insert the window regulator without moving the switch, which was impossible to do.

If you have any luck with this I’d really appreciate a video of how you do it because I miss the auto up feature.

I have gotten lucky with rolling the window to about an inch before it seals and then holding the switch "UP" for about 3 seconds or so. I can't recall where I saw it mentioned or where I picked up the procedure to be honest with you... it's been a long time.

But it seems to work sometimes when the jam protection is being finicky... at least on late 90's to fairly recent Toyotas/Lexus. It's not 100% guaranteed to work, but worth a shot; like I said, it's sometimes worked for me when I get a customer's vehicle that the jam protection starts interfering with relearning the auto up/down functions.

Judging by the line of dirt it's rising to the exact same location

Well that's probably cause it's a PDF, not an image
I'm gonna try and give it a shot whenever I can, my workload just increased by double today and it's looking like I'm gonna be doing 70-90 hour work weeks for the foreseeable future. Worst case scenario I end up at square one and pawn it off onto our family friend and learn from him; not only has he been in auto glass for 40+ years but he also just happens to drive a 1st gen Tacoma, so I'm more than confident the two of us could figure it out together. I remember reading in a separate thread the mechanism is very simple
Either way it's gonna get fixed - I'll be damned if I'm gonna live like this

Makes sense, I guess Tapatalk can’t handle PDFs.

It’s actually kinda grown on me, not enough that I would like to keep it this way, but every once in a while it is nice to be able to roll the window halfway down with one touch.

The window may be going to the same spot, but the window regulator isn’t timed correctly to know where it is.

Tried following the FSM today - and before I put the glass in it seemed to be working great and the auto-up functioned as it should, but in the process of testing it I knocked the glass out and made everything all wonky again. It started to rain so I'm gonna give it another whirl tomorrow and be more careful but it's looking promising. The window in question isn't OEM (even found some good ol diamonds in the bottom of the door today) so it's definitely possible
I see what you mean about the FSM being funky though, the first thing it tells you to do is to separate the motor from the regulator... which is entirely integrated as one unit, and isn't possible to take apart without serious disassembly/reassembly, which I highly doubt is intended seeing the simplicity of the instructions. Also mentions having to unplug it to remove it which wasn't necessary at all, more than enough wire to pull it out and let it hang

So your thinking something is tweaked? Best of luck Tommorrow..

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I’m glad to see I’m not the only one who thought the FSM was vague and unclear. Sounds like what happened to you was similar to what happened to me.

Hey so I fixed it on my own lol. The FSM isn't wrong, just not as detailed as it should be. If you look at the back of the motor/regulator you'll see three torx/flathead screws which affix the two together - this is what Toyota means by separating the two before letting the motor run freely for 10 seconds. Basically I watched this video here and followed all the same steps, including the up-down-3-times stuff. Wasn't hard at all, hardest part was getting the regulator arm+gear installed again at the middle point - the thing is spring loaded and kinda frustrating to do on your own, and would be a lot easier with a second set of hands, but it's not impossible or anything. Only took me like an hour from start of removal to end of testing
For what its worth I was also very careful to try and use just the up function as opposed to the auto-up. I'm not sure if I was actually successful in this, or if it even matters, but I thought it might be worth mentioning

Woohoo it’s possible. Sounds good, thanks for the info. I’ll get on this.